Watch the Runway: Proenza Schouler F/W 08

    Fashion Week has been whirling around us in a fervor and only now am I getting my lazy ass around to actually collecting my thoughts about everything. And what better way to start than with, honestly, one of the best showings of any designer this season: Proenza Schouler Fall '08.



     First things first. It's "School-er". Not "Shoe-ler".
     Now that we've gotten the introductions done with, I can properly begin adulating to the gods that are Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. With the huge cash injection that Proenza Schouler received from the Valentino Fashion Group, the two Parsons grads have been able to go into more conceptual directions with their collection. The meticulous tailoring that we've come to expect out of Proenza Schouler was used to particular effect, creating looks that simultaneously played up and down the body's proportions.
     Pleats and ruffles and bows, usually the domain of the girly and flirty, became expanding symbols of feminine power and self-assertion when used on bright metallic fabrics. The sharp construction transformed soft drapery into solid angles and outerwear was turned inside out (literally) as the duo experimented with what we expect "tailored" design to look like. I especially loved the layering of textures: never have sequins looked so refined. I used to associate them with cheap hookers, but I think the folks at Proenza Schouler certainly kicked the sophistication up a notch.
     The styling was aces. The shoes were a classic pump given new height and new boldness in all-over suede (I think?) or croc in a variety of colors. While I loved the pink and yellow pumps, the chocolate croc one definitely takes the prize for being eminently wearable and deviously stylish. In terms of proportions, there was a definite dichotomy between ruffled dresses and shifts paired with tights and generously cut trousers that billowed with great volume. The trousers were put with sequin-covered tops and cinched by skinny belts and given a great big dash of drama with coats that dripped and drooped under the impressive weight of such minute construction.
     A definite trend that's been emerging this season has been texture, especially in the more monochromatic collections. But instead of playing purely with color or purely with texture, the boys at Proenza Schouler managed to incorporate both without overwhelming the senses. The sense of careful editing is evident through the entire collection. It's easy to see where some sleeves could have ballooned out of control, some ruffles could have spiraled into fashion satire, but a steady eye keeps the silhouettes chic and reasonable, even while they set new precedents.
     Admittedly, this isn't nearly as wearable as any of their previous collections, but that's a good thing. Now that McCollough and Hernandez have been freed from their previous budgetary restrictions, hopefully they'll continue to push the envelope for womenswear. Ultimately, the reason why I (and everybody else) love Proenza Schouler is that no matter what design inspiration they tap, they always strive to answer a very difficult question about fashion: How do you stay chic and sane when you want to break every rule?

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Seeing Red

     The SAG awards passed and you know what that means:

     Red carpet, bitches.

     Do I love everyone in beading and crystals? No. But does Christina Applegate look divine in this Elie Saab number? Absolutely. The hair is just right, pulled back and effortless, but still very polished. Her complexion always makes red lipstick such a great choice, because it plays up her eyes and the great color of her hair, but I'm glad she chose such a subtle red. Clutch? Check. Bracelets? Check. Fantastic neckline and cascading lines of shimmer? Check.

     I am very glad that Michelle Pfeiffer is stepping up her game. Hairspray and Stardust were both pretty good roles for her and I'm glad that she chose such a chic Versace dress for the event. The brown has a slight sheen that works so well with her complexion and, like, Christina Applegate, her hair is loose, casual, but definitely styled. The choice of peep toe pumps, no clutch, and only a watch for an accessory creates such a sleek and no-nonsense silhouette that it's hard not to notice her. The length of the dress is perfect, appropriate for the occasion, but not overly formal.

     I thought Javier Bardem looked particularly dashing in Prada. The tailoring on the suit is fitted, but not constricting. It's an utterly masculine look. I suppose that some of the fellows felt it was less formal of a night, because Javier Bardem doesn't look particularly out of people without neckwear. Although I think he might be showing just the slightest bit too much cuff, I still think it's a refined look that gents should look for as an example.

     I love you to death, Ellen Page, but who said you could wear this Zac Posen? The hair, color, and sleeves add so much age that it's hard to remember that she's only 20. This could have been much better styled if her hair were in loose waves and she hadn't chosen black shoes. The all-over black works much better with a less conservative cut. The neckline and sleeves in black make this more matronly than anything else. The fact that she's only 5' 1" doesn't help, either. A black sheath or even a cocktail dress would have played better to her age. As a younger actress, she can pull off a more revealing dress, so long as she keeps it black and her accessories and make-up subtle and neutral. I hope she just doesn't keep showing up looking like this.

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Sparks for Sounds

     I managed to get my hands on Dan Deacon's Spiderman of the Rings (actually the only CD of his that I have) recently, but hadn't really given it a serious listen until now. I've got to say that it's highly interesting. His live show was a really visceral experience, a combination of performance art, interactivity, and musical exploration. But his recordings seem the complete opposite: thoroughly cerebral, albeit in a really unconventional way.

     Admittedly, I haven't even managed to get through the whole thing, much less form a coherent opinion of it. Part of that is my own laziness, but part of it is Deacon's own damn refusal to let me wrap my head around his music. Sure, you could call it electronica, but that seems shallow and a little unappreciative of the craft that Deacon puts into his work.

     Sure, his set-up is mostly recycled equipment that he's jerry-rigged into some Seuss-like music machine, but that's part of the whole musical process on Spiderman of the Rings. Instead of simply layering sounds, one over another, the tracks seem to emerge and intertwine, embodying the tangled system that gives birth to his music. "Wooody Woodpecker" takes the eponymous cartoon's distinctive laugh and slowly dissociates it from its roots, mixing it with a gentle plinking beat that is soon melded with a rapid-fire drumming. It sounds less like electronica and more like electronic life.

     Rooted in the absurd, the everyday, and the foreign, the album plays out like some strange ion-charged soundtrack to a LSD-induced trip through a Dali gallery. But even dropping names and drugs does little to properly describe the album. Can you dance to it? Sure. But you could just as easily sit and wander through what is nothing less than a sonic exhibition of rhythm, texture, and repetition.

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Roberto Cavalli for H&M

Thoughts coming in

I've been keeping my ear to the ground for news about Robert Cavalli working for H&M. It certainly was a surprise to hear that he had been the next designer selected to do a capsule collection for H&M. Cavalli, with his endless animal prints, Eurotrash sensibility, and Italian disregard for typical restraint has made him a darling for media-getting celebrities. But how well does that really translate into a mass market?

I am not one to be close-minded when it comes to fashion (Alison and Tavi kind of laugh at how eagerly I throw myself into my magazines), but I did have certain reservations about the idea. Would Cavalli really know how to cut for real people who did not have publicists and stylists and personal trainers? His ready-to-wear has never really been that notable and his accessories are usually pretty run-of-the-mill, over-the-top stuff attracts people who are attracted to shiny objects. Which is to say, that he makes shiny objects. Or stretchy. Or print-y. Leopard print-y.

There are other people doing trenchcoats right now at pretty okay price points that are far more interesting than this. Mediocre fit and not a particularly great color either.

I feel the suit cut isn't as flattering as other suits right now. The lines are a bit looser than I feel H&M's target audience is looking for. Shoes are nice, if plain. I'm wondering what that shirt looks like underneath.

I do not understand this knit. Other people have done chunky knits better and in far more interesting ways. There are better alternatives, even at the price H&M will probably offer this. Again, the shirt does prove intriguing. It'd be nice to see more collar variety introduced into the masses.

I don't know how I feel about a one-button, peak-lapel suit in navy. Especially if that the navy isn't really lustrous, and the photo makes me doubt that it is. Same shirt collar as 3, but in a monochrome. I will concede that this suit is much better cut than the previous one.

I'll be surprised if it's real suede. Perhaps just treated canvas? I don't know. The shape is nice, but some of the lines feel a little off.

Is anyone else getting a slightly feminine vibe off of these? I don't know. The height of the boot and the construction seems to set off the heel. And in my book, men's shoes should not be emphasizing the heel.

Those look like French cuffs. If so, I might be compelled. The tie appears to have some sort of printing on it. Animal print? Oy.

Do I hate it? No. Do I love it? No. Do I see reason to keep watch? Certainly. Although I am a bit confounded by certain choices in terms of fit and color, I don't think this isn't without merits. This  is certainly a type of style that is not commonly made available to the average Joe, which is a nice thing. I believe that this is an honest (if not completely successful) attempt to democratize fashion.

But my real hope is that designer collections like this will make the general public more aware about what's going on. I'm not insisting that everyone try to be a trendsetter or follow the designers with every season, but a general awareness of the present fashion scene does allow for one to avoid making an awkward faux pas.

Criteria
Concept — C; It's an average collection of average clothing.
Wearability — B; Odd cuts hurt this grade, but dressy ready-to-wear at a reasonable price is never a bad thing.
Design — ?; Without really examining it, I can't really make any judgment call here.

I guess we'll just have to wait and see.

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