I BOUGHT THIS / I WANT THAT

     And so the vicious cycle continues. The influx of black continues even as the sun refuses to turn it down a notch. But when it does decide to scale it back a little, I'm definitely going to be prepared. I've been on a big multi-function sort of kick lately, so this sleeveless top with attached scarves from Diet Butcher Slim Skin was a natural draw. Add cashmere and silk and you've got one sold customer. For brisk fall days, I've got this Lad Musician jacket with a roll-away hood if I'm in a pinch. These April 77 Chelsea slacks are actually intended for a super secret event next week, but if I said what it was, then it wouldn't be so secret, now would it?

     But with every itch you scratch, you always wind up with another. And some of these itches are not easy to scratch. Maybe for a reason? Fiscal responsibility notwithstanding, I've still get my eyes peeled for what's next and — surprise, surprise — it's more black. I'm don't usually consider myself a big sneaker head, but these canvas high-tops from Diet Butcher Slim Skin's fall collection ($390 @ Blackbird) would give anyone reason to pause.

     As great as my current bag is, I can't help but feel the need for something a bit more professional. I'm not any big proponent of the green fashion movement, but I don't see any reason to pooh-pooh something just because it's vegan leather or anything. And the Jobs briefcase from Matt & Nat ($258 @ Alter) might make me turn over a new leaf. Everything from the zippers to the handle to the subtle branding certainly makes a persuasive argument for eco-friendly consumerism.

     Also, the jewelry hunt goes on (does it every really end, though?) and this acrylic feather pendant from Alex & Chloe ($48 @ Alex & Chloe) is just the touch of light humor that my slowly darkening wardrobe could use. Who knows? Maybe I'll really step outside the box and try it in fluorescent pink? Well. Definitely not. But I'd give the white version a chance. See? I'm trying to be adventurous.

     So maybe I lied. Maybe this isn't all black. This grey, high collar, double-breasted jacket from Endovanera has positively set my knees a shaking. I tried it on at Acrimony the other day and had a really hard time taking it off. Sharon, I blame you for any and all future calamity that befalls my checking account.

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New School

(Raf Simons x Eastpak padded bag, £89 @ oki-ni)

     I honestly don't know what to think now that I'm entering my second half of my undergraduate education. Am I supposed to be more serious? More sure about what I want to do for the rest of my life? Because I don't. The only thing I do know is that I need more Raf Simons in my life, and it might as well be on my back.

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     Not what I wore today, but rather a few days ago. Work and errands have been keeping me busy, so I snapped the shot but didn't post the result. The heat has had its desired effect upon my wardrobe and I have shifted to light garments and taken to rolling a sleeve or two every now and then. I'm thinking of perhaps object dying my Zuriicks, since they aren't as dark as I'd like, and I think it'd be cool if they had a slight yellow cast, too. Inspiration comes from both the Margiela dyed high-tops and the Raf ones, but a devoted Zuriick customer made a couple custom dye jobs (all sold out, unfortunately), which is the real impetus behind this daring foray into any experimenting.

     And while it very effectively raises my pant cuffs, summer also has a tendency to lower my attention span and idle dreaming quickly overcomes any other thoughts. Connie's recent score of some Yves Saint Laurent pants (timely, no?) from the 70s is totally Le Smoking, what with the wide leg and the fabulous row of sequins down the outseam. The sequins got me fixated on sparkles and – surprise, surprise – I find myself browsing through Net-A-Porter's sale section. And when I stumbled onto this Burberry Prorsum jumbo paillette top ($1,046.25 on sale from $1,395) I couldn't help but see the same sense of glamour.

     Naturally, I clicked over to Marc by Marc Jacobs and found the same sense of flash (though more subtlety executed) in this double-breasted sheath ($321 from $428). And the item that Net-A-Porter suggested you should "Wear it with"? This oversized cardigan ($299.60 from $428). I'm not sure I necessarily agree with that pairing (and I don't), but I must say that it's a piece that has lots of mature glamour. And so does this Marni patent leather envelope ($797.30 from $1,190). Now somebody go out and get these so I can live vicariously through you.

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     Conversations with Connie about clothes might start off in the realms of vision and imagination, but they always wind up firmly rooted in the pure practicality of the matter. Case in point? My much beloved and much desired Surface to Air Cargo Bag and this awesome heat-sensitive, color-changing tank top from Anzevino and Florence have turning over in my mind.

     Now, is $78 a lot for a top? Yes. Is it a lot for a tank top? Most certainly. I certainly know there are better deals out there on jersey tank tops (Urban carries them for $10 each), but cut of it looks great and drape-y and the color changing bit is absolutely cool and looks absolutely beautiful. But how do I value those extra qualities? The market says I should value them for $68 more than the ones from Urban and I agree. But why? Why do I find myself aligning with the number that the market has mysteriously* produced?

     (* Okay, it isn't such a mystery. It's a combination of research, drafting, advertising, fabrics, production, and also the brand's "value". I acknowledge the various elements of the industry and the variety of intersecting functions that are necessary to create, market, and sell a single product, much less an entire collection. )

     So I find the top desirable, so I desire it, and so I'm okay with paying $78 (not that I have...yet). But what if someone else doesn't think that's reasonable? How am I supposed to explain myself? We obviously don't look for the same traits in a garment (me: fit, cut, fabric, design / them: price, availability ), so I can't argue that it fits my criteria for a "good" garment. This is the sort of dilemma I encounter whenever someone asks me about my spending habits. The problem I find most often is that people find me unreasonable for my willingness to spend a larger quantity than average. They think that I am unable to settle, that I'm trying to create a gap between myself and others, but that has nothing to do with it.

     You don't think I'm reasonable? Fine. I don't think you're reasonable because you wear Crocs and you're over the age of 5. We'll just have to agree to disagree.

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Head to Toe: Dressing Down, Dressing UP

(Click for full-sized image)

     So, going out with Connie only makes me realize how pathetically meager my own closet is. In the spirit of that (and Coors Light, Jäger bombs, Jack Daniels, and absurd 90s covers), I present my smart casual options for the coming summer. I love the idea of a muted palette for spring with a flash of color. I know that this hits a bit close to "nu-rave hipster steez" for some folks, and I understand that. But I also don't give a fuck and think that this is a great set of stuff.

• (one) Rogan Henley in black: I actually picked this up on sale at August and, let me tell you, it fits like a dream. It's fitted, but drapey, and the extra-long sleeve gives it such a great subtle twist. ($120 @ BlueBee)
• (two) Endovanera Carrot Pant: I can't help but love the idea of cropped trousers. Lord knows that no one needs to see my legs in their full untanned horror, so cropped trousers seem like a great compromise to the upcoming climate change. ($187 @ Oak)
• (three) Spitfire 83 to Infinity sunglasses in black/red: So, while I love the Ksubi shades, I can't help but think they're a little played out. No, I do not have any Gold Card hang-ups when it comes to clothes. But I like the idea of mixing it up. Black frames with a bold stripe of red certainly seem like a great answer to the increase in sunshine we've been getting. ($35 @ Tobi)
• (four) Raf Simons Canvas Fasten belt in grey: Throw in a bit of white to break up all those dark neutrals. And who doesn't love webbed canvas for a quick shot of texture? ($132 @ Oki-ni)
• (five) Driftwood Skull Ring: Moody? Sure. But you can't deny that this ring is a real eye-catching piece. Made of silver and finished with polished black enamel, the detail on this thing is absolutely ridiculous. ($93 on sale from $185 @ Active Endeavors)
• (six) J. Fold Weekend Bag: And the bag hunt continues. I'm honestly very surprised that I haven't just given up and grabbed the first Chrome or Puma bag that's come my way. But, truth be told, the seeking has been so much more satisfying than the finding. ($350 @ Tobi)
• (seven) Opening Ceremony Simple Dress Shoe in grey: If I love their jeans, it's not a real stretch of the imagination to expect that I'd love their shoes as well. Patent grey? The novelty wears off quick, but the lustrous and deep color certainly stays. The rounded toe is perfect for dressing up or down and the cut would be ideal for going without socks on a warm summer day. ($325 @ BlueBee)

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Head to Toe: Spring Fling

(Click for full-size image)

     While Spring has not quite sprung, a whole day's worth of gloom and grey has made me pine for sunnier days, lighter color palettes, and new shoes (of course). Patrick Ervell's show for Spring '08 was certainly one of the highlights of the season, with its bold colors, simple lines, and fantastic details. And since lighter weather equals fewer layers, it all becomes about bold pieces with loads of detail. But don't get crazy, it's about sprezzatura.

     The new Heutchy boots (from Trovata to Shipley and Halmos to them) are part of their upcoming line which is effortlessly classic. And pair that with the YMC motorbike pants ($133 @ Gargyle) for a rugged blend of Americana and European tailoring. In terms of accessories, you can opt for the bright, as in Raf Simons multi-colored collaboration with Eastpak (£279 @ Oki-ni), or the basic with Rag & Bone's canvas satchel ($175 @ Barney's CO-OP). Light scarves are appropriate for maritime excursions and if I managed to take the boat from my rich future ex-husband, I'd tie a loose knot with this Ann Demeulemeester striped scarf ($340 @ Aloha Rag) to keep things light and layered. But I'd be lying if didn't clearly state that my best find is the zip boots from YMC ($190 @ Blackbird), which come with an interchangeable grey pig leather/navy canvas upper that are easily swapped with nothing more than a quick zip. And there's a reverse colorway if you'd prefer your leather darker.

     But aren't we trying to stay positive here?

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Shopping Fever

     I would totally make a kick-ass collage out of this, if my Photoshop were working. But due to a series of unfortunate events, I am currently having to live without any part of the Adobe Creative Suite. Yes. This is a new emotional low for me. In return for being so patient while I (meaning Jon Ong) sort out the technical difficulties (which may or may not include getting Leopard), I promise something super fabulous. Paper doll patterns, mayhaps? Or maybe I'll be a bit more consistent with posts? Whatever. I'll probably wind up doing whatever I damn well please, no matter what happens.

     So in my mail, I got a refund from the school, saying that I had $600 in credit. Well, I'm never one to complain about receiving money, so I resolved to tuck it into my checking account and keep it for next month's rent, so I wouldn't have to ask my parents for the whole amount.

     But then I found out that Gargyle was having a sale.

     Fuck.

(Fred Perry 3 Color Check Shirt, $67.20 on sale from $96 @ Gargyle)

(Corpus Cadet Jacket, $225 on sale from $375 @ Gargyle)

(YMC Cropped Chino Trousers, $133 @ Gargyle)

(Umbro by Kim Jones Mork Aztec Sneakers, $108 on sale from $135 @ Gargyle)

(Umbro by Kim Jones Aztec Trim Weekender, $116 on sale from $145 @ Gargyle)

     Okay, so I threw in a couple that weren't on sale. So sue me. But now I have another candidate for my next bag. Ugh. I love the shoes and the bag by Kim Jones, who makes just some of the smartest fucking sneakers on the planet. Honest to God, if they had all my sizes in all the above items, I would totally just buy this outfit in a heartbeat. But I have (some) self-control, so the only things I'm seriously considering are the bag and shoes (and maybe the pants if they go on sale in my size).

     All this shopping is really just a way of congratulating myself on not only completely my English essay, but also getting over a fever of 100.3°F over the course of one night. Thanks, ibuprofen!

     Now if only there were some pill to get rid of all this fucking reading, then I'd be set.

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Wallet Alert: Not-Bad Bags

(Balkan Tango Budapest "M" Inner Tube Bag, $120 @ Supermarket)

(Livity Urbanite Messenger Bag, $70 @ Tobi)

     I hate sacrificing style for substance. It's an inherently painful exchange. Often times, the choice that would be better for the planet is usually the much less aesthetically pleasing one. Hell, it's usually straight up ugly. Thankfully, the folks at Balkan Tango, a Hungarian design group, have managed to circumvent the whole issue with their recycled bags. I've seen people make those LP bags before, but the Budapest, made from six punctured bicycle tires, certainly managed to catch my eye.

     What I love most about the bag (aside from the ability to sidestep all that guilt) is that all the flaws and quirks of the tires, from the brand to the specifications, all merge into the bag's identity. It's a clever idea and I'm pretty sure that no two bags are alike. This is seriously looking like a very replacement for my current bag.

     Likewise, the Livity Urbanite is a classic messenger, replete with side pockets, front zip pocket, and velcro closure. Made of hemp and cotton with rafia pockets, this bag is the definition of going green. My only fear is that it's a bit too granola for my style. Lord knows I'd be absolutely horrified if some grungy hippie came up to me and asked me where I got my bag. But at $70, it's a much more viable option than the Balkan Tango one.

     A bag, a bag, my kingdom for a bag...

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Not Just Noir

     So my search for a suit was an utter disaster. I visited H&M, Zara, French Connection, Macy's, Barney's, and Bloomingdales. In the course of my afternoon, I can't even remember all the brands that I looked through. But no matter where I went, the problem was the same: too, too big on me. No matter how much I may will it, there's no way that my 34-inch chest is going to properly fill out a 36 size jacket. And that is exactly why I put my name down for one of the Barney's Co-op suits. It'll probably be the best fitting jacket at the price point ($300-ish?), so no need to jump the gun.

      In a moment of blazing clarity, I saw the 406's at a distance while I was leaving Bloomies and just had to try them on at least. And when the associate told me that I would get 10% because they were the display piece, I couldn't help myself. Well, I could have, but that wouldn't have been any fun. Now I just need to sell some old shit to make sure that my bank doesn't ram down my door and ask for a pound of flesh.

     But now that I've got a kick-ass pair of shoes, naturally my thoughts are going to immediately go to how to style them. In a moment of murky confusion, I never thought of taking a picture of today's outfit. Oh well. But let us obsess on more interesting things, like nice monochrome outfits.

(Levi's Red Tab 511 Skinny Cord Pants, $49 @ Urban Outfitters)

      Whenever it comes to monochrome or muted palettes, I tend to play up other elements, like cut, layering, or texture. What better to offset the shiny waxed cotton of my new shoes than black corduroy? It's tough, comfortable, and creates great contrast.

(Long Sleeve Slub Hoodie, $38 @ Urban Outfitters)

     Add in a striped black and grey slub hoodie. I actually was talking with Ian and Alex about how interesting it would have been to been a college student during the hey-days of grunge. The color and tone pull us straight back to the 90s, but a slim silhouette and fit keeps it grounded firmly in a modern, more architectural aesthetic.

(Vasuma Johnny Black Collar Coat, $261 @ 111Vox)

     Coats should always serve as interest pieces. The removable collar provides drama when you need it, but sturdy cotton construction with nylon lining means that being stylish doesn't mean being impractical. The large cuff and collar would play particularly well against the skinny cords.

(Banned Brand Laptop Bag, $164 @ 111Vox)

      Never forget to accessorize. Bags are pretty personal, since everyone wants different things out of their bag. But you can't beat a black leather laptop messenger when it comes to sleek functionality. A couple of small outer pockets provide quick access to pens and phones. I find the embossing to be a little distracting, since it disrupts the clean lines of the rest of the bag, but I love how slouchy, yet structured it is. It always seems like paradoxes make for great fashion.

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Wallet Alert: Messenger Bags

(From top to bottom: Hlaska Radiant Medium Laptop Bag, $220 @ Tobi; Fox Nylon Messenger Bag, $169 @ Charles & Marie; Cole Haan Leather Zip-Top Briefcase, $330 @ Bluefly)

     And so the hunt for my new bag begins. Function necessarily precedes form, as my needs usually include lugging around my laptop and a couple of books. Classes have yet to begin, so I'm not entirely sure on what sort of demands I'll require of my bag, hence my open-mindedness. My Ben Sherman messenger has served me faithfully, but the minor problems of construction (poor closure, slipping D-rings, lack of structure) has proven to be a less than minor inconvenience.

    The Hlaska laptop bag is really winning the race right now for me. Sturdy fabric with leather trim and padded to cradle a laptop, it's a pretty good fusion of style and substance. The green lining gives it a nice kick, which is always appreciated. And at $220 it's at reasonable enough for a price-point that I wouldn't mind saving up for it. The Fox Nylon bag is, quite honestly, such a cool concept that I'm hard-pressed not to just snag it right now. It's a wrap-around messenger that fits around whatever size load you're carrying, which sounds like a super versatile option. But the Cole Haan comes in simply for the huge discount ($220 off? Oh my!) and an all-leather bag sounds like a great investment, especially at this price. The lack of conspicuous branding doesn't hurt one bit, either.

     But no guns shall be jumped, since I'm lacking any real income right now. I'm planning on heading down to Urban or something to see if I can find a retail bitch position with which I might fill my oh-so-empty hours.

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Mother Nature's Sun

From the front, the Logan from Noon Solar looks like a pretty standard messenger bag: 3 interior zipped pockets, leather zipper pulls, Bavarian vegetable tanned and dyed leather. And at $412 it's a pricey, but not necessarily putting it into the stratosphere in terms of price point. But when you turn it around:

A weather-proofed solar cell connected to a lithium-ion battery allows for iPod and cell phone charging on the go. And it works even if it's turned towards you. I'm rarely on board with a lot of the modern fusions of fashion and technology (Zegna comes close to earning my approval, but some of the looks are still a bit too spaced out), but this seems like just such a smart idea. 

According to the makers, a 6 to 8 hour sit in the sun will provide a full battery to juice up your music or your calls. So whether you're actually out in the sun or just propping it next to a window, you'll always have a little extra battery for your electronics on hand.

And I have been on the lookout for a new bag...

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