MDBB: London Fashion Week F/W '08

     Mind dump brainblog. noun. The result of my extreme bored with school (e.g. journalism mid-term and the massive readings that I'm supposed to do) coupled with my skill in wasting time. A chance for you to ride along in my head as I flip through Style.com's coverage on London without illustrations, which will be added when I am less pre-occupied with not failing.

MISSONI

(11:10 PM - 17/02/08)

• Why does it feel like Missoni is meant for some old, rich lady now?
• Where did all the knit go? Did all the sheep die in Italy? I don't understand this.
• Some of these shoes are damn fine and sophisticated. Classy stuff.
• Cute red dress with twisted bubble hem. I never thought I'd live to see the day.
• Very anti-body-con (how bad are these buzzwords going to last?) dress in color blocks. Typical sophisticated palette. But nice tweak.
• The jury's still out on the mushroom-puff-collar-bumble-hem sheath.

SINHA-STANIC

(11:33 PM - 17/02/08)

• I don't think I can really handle this shiny dress in no established context. Too much, too early for me.
• I feel like the schizo-color block thing is a little more effective in muted colors, not bright, saturated ones.
• I like the silhouette of the pouf skirts to the fitted tops with the slightly shell-like short jackets. It's an interesting look.
• The stacked/wrinkled tight knit dresses are really doing it for me.
• Some of these proportions seem a little funny.
• Interesting cobweb knits. The color choices are definitely striking and the overall effect really makes you think about what knits can do.
• I just don't buy these shoes. Sorry. Next.
• But Fiona is as cute as ever. Thank the heavens.

CHRISTOPHER KANE

(11:48 - 17/02/08)

• Okay...this is...different.
• The severity and the piallettes make for a super subversive combination. Very tongue in chic.
• There are definitely better and worse examples of transparency.
• None of these are even really standing out to me.
• If I bought those shoes, I'd rip off every single thing dangling off of it and throw it at people in ugly jeans.

JUST CAVALLI

(11:55 - 17/02/08)

• I just feel obliged to do this because Cavalli wasn't a half-bad judge on Project Runway, so I have to give him some props.
• This hat is a good start.
• Why haven't I seen more Biba stuff around?
• I do love these shoes.
• For the age group/price point to which it belongs, some of these shorter dresses are pretty cute.
• Some of the florals are pretty restrained, considering what Cavalli typically goes for.
• Puffy sleeve blouse under tweed (?) dress with subtle floral tights, metallic shoes, and drawstring bag that reminds me of a bag of magic? Sign me up, yes.

ERDEM

(12:08 - 18/02/08)

• Already liking this a lot. It's got drama, it's got style.
• The blur print is absolutely magnificently executed.
• This duchesse looks like it probably costs a million bucks, and it probably does, too.
• The jackets kind of came out of nowhere.
• But the second yellow one is really hitting the spot for me.
• Some of these coats are less successful than others, but still a very good effort.
• The darker hues definitely work better, but I'm totally falling in love with all the purple everywhere this season.

     Good work team. We'll figure out how to class this up later.

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Head to Toe: Robert Geller, Hiroshige, and Expensive Boots

(Click for full-size image)

     Connie's managed to make me feel utterly useless (thanks, Connie) so I felt the urge to be productive, although by other standards (say those measuring how much work I'm getting done on this English essay) this could be considered a complete waste of time.

     My space heater has managed to replace the bone-chilling cold of my room with a comfortable 75.0°F, but my toes have yet to thaw and the sensation brought to mind Robert Geller's absolutely stunning collection for Fall. While Geller took his cue from the winters of Russia, I felt absolutely compelled by Hiroshige's masterful take on a snow-covered scene, Two men by a gate in the mountains. And I also wanted to completely rip off Geller's look, but for less. It's a mix of high and low, mind you, and where it's high, it certainly gets high. But I always try to put out an honest effort to acquire things not merely as things, but as functional and aesthetic investments.

• Rib Hem Storm Flap Bomber Jacket, $125.46 @ ASOS: Any M-65 you have (you do have one, no?) would be best, but if you're lacking one, then this bomber jacket from ASOS has enough military detailing to fit the bill. Sufficiently tailored to be Geller and sufficiently rock-and-roll to be your own.
• Essex Sweater, $18 @ Heritage1981: I abhor Heritage1981 for quality reasons, but that shouldn't stop you from filling those tiny holes that occasionally pop up in your wardrobe with a cheap sweater. At least until you can find the exact James Perse sweatshirt that you want. Drop a Jackson and take some bus fare home.
• Nudie Thin Finn Grey Coated Jeans, $175 @ Oak: My roommates are both very wary of coated denim and I have yet to purchase a pair out of fear that they might mock me endlessly. But that doesn't stop me from drooling over Nudie's grey coated skinny jeans, which add a matte luster to an otherwise, flat color palette.
• Drakes Snowflake Solid Scarf, $50.59 (£25) @ oki-ni: On sale and made out of lambswool? Sold. Not nearly as crinkled as the one in Geller's look (you'll have to look for something woven, not knitted, if that's what you're after), this scarf is still a totally worthwhile replacement. The understated waffle knit adds an extra layer of texture to an extra layer.
• Alex & Chloe Knife Necklace, $48 @ Urban Outfitters: I'm a big fan of the Alex & Chloe stuff, mostly because it's appropriately masculine jewelry at a pretty reasonable price point. And you know how I am whenever I get what I want for less than I can afford. Besides, you need just a hint of shine for visual interest.
• Buttero Work Boot, $375 @ Barney's Co-op: My word, the things I would be willing to do to get my hands on a pair of Buttero boots. Whenever someone posts a picture of theirs on Supertalk, I'm usually left gasping for air-slash-burning with envy. If you're looking for a boot to last a lifetime, then by all means, stop your search and GET THESE BOOTS.

     There, Connie. Who's the lazy one now?

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Watch the Runway: Proenza Schouler F/W 08

    Fashion Week has been whirling around us in a fervor and only now am I getting my lazy ass around to actually collecting my thoughts about everything. And what better way to start than with, honestly, one of the best showings of any designer this season: Proenza Schouler Fall '08.



     First things first. It's "School-er". Not "Shoe-ler".
     Now that we've gotten the introductions done with, I can properly begin adulating to the gods that are Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. With the huge cash injection that Proenza Schouler received from the Valentino Fashion Group, the two Parsons grads have been able to go into more conceptual directions with their collection. The meticulous tailoring that we've come to expect out of Proenza Schouler was used to particular effect, creating looks that simultaneously played up and down the body's proportions.
     Pleats and ruffles and bows, usually the domain of the girly and flirty, became expanding symbols of feminine power and self-assertion when used on bright metallic fabrics. The sharp construction transformed soft drapery into solid angles and outerwear was turned inside out (literally) as the duo experimented with what we expect "tailored" design to look like. I especially loved the layering of textures: never have sequins looked so refined. I used to associate them with cheap hookers, but I think the folks at Proenza Schouler certainly kicked the sophistication up a notch.
     The styling was aces. The shoes were a classic pump given new height and new boldness in all-over suede (I think?) or croc in a variety of colors. While I loved the pink and yellow pumps, the chocolate croc one definitely takes the prize for being eminently wearable and deviously stylish. In terms of proportions, there was a definite dichotomy between ruffled dresses and shifts paired with tights and generously cut trousers that billowed with great volume. The trousers were put with sequin-covered tops and cinched by skinny belts and given a great big dash of drama with coats that dripped and drooped under the impressive weight of such minute construction.
     A definite trend that's been emerging this season has been texture, especially in the more monochromatic collections. But instead of playing purely with color or purely with texture, the boys at Proenza Schouler managed to incorporate both without overwhelming the senses. The sense of careful editing is evident through the entire collection. It's easy to see where some sleeves could have ballooned out of control, some ruffles could have spiraled into fashion satire, but a steady eye keeps the silhouettes chic and reasonable, even while they set new precedents.
     Admittedly, this isn't nearly as wearable as any of their previous collections, but that's a good thing. Now that McCollough and Hernandez have been freed from their previous budgetary restrictions, hopefully they'll continue to push the envelope for womenswear. Ultimately, the reason why I (and everybody else) love Proenza Schouler is that no matter what design inspiration they tap, they always strive to answer a very difficult question about fashion: How do you stay chic and sane when you want to break every rule?

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