Cyndi Was Right

(Alexander McQueen Spring 2009)

Girls get to have all the fun.

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Jonathan Saunders for Target

     A friend recently noted the dearth of discussion about womenswear and I blame school work, magazine work, and work work for my inability to muster up anything worth saying. But while helping Connie pack for her trip to Fashion Week, we wound up talking a lot about high-end designers and their low-end collaborations. Succeeding Richard Chai as the latest Target Go International Designer, British colorblocking extraordinaire Jonathan Saunders has created a whole range of looks that take his signature aesthetic and tones it down a little.

     This isn't to say that it's watered-down Saunders; the prints on some of these pieces are definitely out of the mainstream tastes. But with more manageable silhouettes and a quite a few separates, I'm sure everyone is going to find something they like. What really interests me, though, are those boots that the model is wearing. What can I say, I obviously have a thing for strapped boots. Now if only I could find a pair that would work for me...

(Images from Nylon and NYMag)

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     Not what I wore today, but rather a few days ago. Work and errands have been keeping me busy, so I snapped the shot but didn't post the result. The heat has had its desired effect upon my wardrobe and I have shifted to light garments and taken to rolling a sleeve or two every now and then. I'm thinking of perhaps object dying my Zuriicks, since they aren't as dark as I'd like, and I think it'd be cool if they had a slight yellow cast, too. Inspiration comes from both the Margiela dyed high-tops and the Raf ones, but a devoted Zuriick customer made a couple custom dye jobs (all sold out, unfortunately), which is the real impetus behind this daring foray into any experimenting.

     And while it very effectively raises my pant cuffs, summer also has a tendency to lower my attention span and idle dreaming quickly overcomes any other thoughts. Connie's recent score of some Yves Saint Laurent pants (timely, no?) from the 70s is totally Le Smoking, what with the wide leg and the fabulous row of sequins down the outseam. The sequins got me fixated on sparkles and – surprise, surprise – I find myself browsing through Net-A-Porter's sale section. And when I stumbled onto this Burberry Prorsum jumbo paillette top ($1,046.25 on sale from $1,395) I couldn't help but see the same sense of glamour.

     Naturally, I clicked over to Marc by Marc Jacobs and found the same sense of flash (though more subtlety executed) in this double-breasted sheath ($321 from $428). And the item that Net-A-Porter suggested you should "Wear it with"? This oversized cardigan ($299.60 from $428). I'm not sure I necessarily agree with that pairing (and I don't), but I must say that it's a piece that has lots of mature glamour. And so does this Marni patent leather envelope ($797.30 from $1,190). Now somebody go out and get these so I can live vicariously through you.

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Glam Design Contest SMACKDOWN

     Oh yeah, bitches. It's time for round two. Glam hasn't invoked enough of my wrath (my love? my time?), so we've got an another set of would-be designers trying to shove their work down our throats. But you know what? It didn't leave half as bad a taste in my mouth as last time. And I've had plenty of rotten shit down my gullet, so that means a lot.

     Well, slap my ass and say I was born yesterday, but Janey's creation is a very interesting, very Proenza Schouler-esque dress. Except it's got a little more richness in color. The choker-like construction creates an interesting silhouette, considering the structure of the bodice. Janey certainly is bringing plenty of New York style to this contest. I'm not totally sold on that ribbing (pleating?) along the waist, but I'm actually rather pleased and would not mind seeing this win.

     At first, I was going to say that this was a pretty cute, laid-back dress ideal for spring and summer. The color blocking is refined and the palette itself is rather sophisticated. Brava, Kate, brava. You've created a—wait a minute. Using "patchwork quilting" you put together "silk charmeuse, organic cotton, and linen squares"? No, Kate, you did not create a tour de force, as I was about to say. But congratulations, you have managed to create Frankendress. A hideous amalgam of too many fabrics, too many (disjointed) textures, and embedded a stained-glass window in your model's abdomen. Also, I love the Louboutin's that look like torture devices. Your heels actually are torture devices.

     If Lau intended for this to be a yellow silk dress with a sheer double-layer over the top, then I'd be in love. If, however, she just forgot to simply erase the abdomen of the drawing underneath, then that's stupid. Fortunately, I'm willing to give her the benefit of the doubt. It's an interesting use of transparency and layers and I'm always a sucker for a yellow dress for spring. Also, love the contrasting colors along the bodice top and as straps.

     There's conceptual, and then there's Lejla's hot mess growing next to a freakishly large fruit. "Hay-colored silk"? Since when do I want a dress to be the same color as animal fodder? The collar would have been interesting had it's volume been played up against something more body-conscious. As it stands, I now have a strong urge to rip this off and cut off about six of the seven million yards of fabric Lejla wasted to make this sin against nature.

     Remember how we talked about not being stupid and drawing "inspiration from the Orient"? Well, not is so many words and in using offensive terminology. But you know what I mean. Well, Linda has dipped into the dark, double-edged magic of "ethnic inspiration". I applaud the thoughtful reinterpretation, with its smart color choices, excellent proportions, and the under-stated bow in front. I barf at the "train" and the pockets. Now, I object to the train because it's tacky, but I object to the pockets because I have a very dark dislike of them. I know you ladies love the functionality, but let's be honest here. Most of the time, pockets ruin the proportions and/or lines of a good dress. Yes, they don't destroy the outfit, but they are, ultimately unnecessary. I mean, aren't you carrying the James Jean Prada bag with you anyway? Why do you need pockets?

     Okay, I'm not usually a fan of "sporty" dresses, but I might have to make a partial exception. I mean, Melinda isn't completely off the hook here. The bib front? A completely contrivance. But the lined hood combined with the interesting hem and just enough sleeve to invoke activewear creates a very interesting look. The silhouette would also be pretty flattering to a lot of women, too. But please. The bib? You should have just gone for a button-up neck.

     Was there a memo I missed? Did Ferrero-Rocher become an acceptable raw material for a dress? Okay, fine Shana intended them to be roses. But since when are roses muddy brown? Also, please stop with the cuff. Stop trying to prove to me that your dress is "on trend". Instead, take away the eighties hair and earrings, shave off a bit of those roses, and then we'll talk.

     Okay, here's the good news, Stacey, your name isn't an irritating irregular spelling of a common name and your dress isn't a hackneyed attempt to invoke florals. Actually it's a rather interesting take on the magnolia's distinct coloring and petals. But I don't think it's a very successful wedding dress. It's a little too editorial for a wedding, if you know what I'm saying. Also, "hidden side zip"? Do you mean, "ill-fitting mess"? Be smart and just put a zip in the back so that it's easier to fit.

     All in all, not that bad, girls. I didn't wind up spending half the time trying to not regurgitate my Thai house noodles, which, by anyone's standards, represents a great improvement. Keep it up, ladies, my gag reflex thanks you.

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Mind the Gap

(Click for full-size image)

     Is it just me or is Gap actually becoming much less repulsive? Their latest thing is a "European" collection for men and women that aren't really very European. Sure, the construction is a little more detail-oriented, but let's not kid ourselves, this is American sportswear. That being said, this is damn fine American sportswear. From the men's mac to the ladies' sleeveless belted dress, I am finding pretty much everything in this little collection to be chic, understated, and rather effortless.

     The price point (from $30 or so for tops up to $168 for coats) is diverse enough that you could either buy everything and call it an investment or just select a few items and consider it a bargain. The fact that it's part of the European collection means that the fit is a bit slimmer, a little more body conscious. Which, given the clean lines and rather sophisticated silhouettes, seems like a very good idea.

     Honestly, prior to this, I had been trying to avoid Gap for quite a while, as diluted as their vision has become thanks to poor creative direction and the endless flood of Product(RED) garbage pouring out its doors. But now that Patrick Robinson is in charge, the brand has received a nice injection of well-edited opinion that reflects upon a genuine attempt to re-cultivate the company and re-position it as a pre-eminent source of uniquely American clothing. Is it totally successful? Well, I'd really like to give it a yes, but I can't say yet. We've still got to see what the mainline stuff for Fall is going to look like. But given the previews so pleasantly provided by Style.com and Men.Style.com, I'm rather optimistic about Gap's outlook.

     As always, the rising price point gives me pause, but with the not-quite-a-recession that we're going through, it's expected that costs are going to be adversely affected. That notwithstanding, it's mass market clothing that still boasts some solid design.

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Best Foot Forward

(Click for full-size image)

     Three shoes from Fall 08/09 that need some strong women in them, stat. Marni is definitely the most conservative, but most practical, of the bunch. The Prada ruffle heels have got me swooning, but it's Christian Louboutin's custom work for Rodarte that really made me pay attention. Good lord, ladies' feet are going to have one awesome season.

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Art of Darkness

     I saw this ad for an online design competition being sponsored by American Express and run by Glam over at Connie's and decided to just snoop a little. Lord was I in for a shock. The majority of these are ugly as sin. Not just because some of these folks clearly aren't fashion illustrators—that's an understandable result of a competition open to anyone and everyone—my problem is that these folks are the semifinalists. I thought about just leaving it at that, but I seriously have to go through these one by one and rip them apart.

     Monique decided to take inspiration from a "candle from the Bahamas". Well, this explains why this is a big, hot mess. I think this girl just decided to throw on as many ideas that she associated with "pretty dress" onto one sketch. Plunging neck? Check. Asymmetrical back strap? Check. Low-cut back? Check. Contrast color star? Check. Oh please. Maybe instead of taking "time out of her classes", she needs to focus a bit more.

     "Elaborate"? "Eco-minded"? What is that little thing running down the middle? A bib? Well, you might be throwing up all over yourself if you're wearing this, so I can understand the need. And I bet a ton of people voted for her just because she claimed that this was "made from bamboo". Pssh. I'm from the Bay, girl. I know some real sustainable clothing lines and none of them look this bad/boring/bad. And can we talk about those ridiculous feet? I understand that it's hard to draw shoes, but anybody with a real eye can see that Alexandra still clearly endorses the idea of bound feet, which I don't think is very fashion forward.

      I appreciated Anne's attempt to distract me from her boring, boring dress with her model's legs. I know how far a good pair of stems will get you, so I understand what she's trying to do here. Unfortunately this does not change the fact that her dress is basically something that you can buy from any of the following establishments: Forever 21, Target, H&M, Charlotte Russe, Wet Seal, et cetera. A draped neckline and high hem do not a hot dress make.

     Too easy. Next.

     Not bad, Carrie, not bad at all. Your appeal to my Kate Moss-centric sensibilities definitely earns you a point or two. Your styling, however, leaves something to be desired. Short skirt? Flapper inspired look? Please, don't hurt yourself stretching. I know it must be difficult. The layered skirt, ruched bodice, and asymmetrical strap/collar create some visual interest. I won't be too hard on Carrie because, unlike so many others, she actually tried.

     Let's get a few things straight. This is about clothes. I don't know how much time you spent drawing your model's face, but more importantly—and you really ought to be taking notes here, Christina—I really don't care. Droopy cowlneck double-knit dress? Gross. And what the fuck is that on the dress anyway? Did you just make a screenprint out of a piece of your grandmother's couch? And you added leggings. It's like serving a shitcake with piss frosting and a big bowl of frozen vomit on the side.

     Now Jessica, I know this is going to be hard for you to understand, but I'd like you to follow along with me very, very carefully. I'll say this slowly to make sure that you get everything. There. Is. A. World. Outside. Palo. Alto. I understand that it's hard to envision a place where everyone doesn't have legs that go on for days, where people don't feel the need to tie their hair into a pony-tail and throw it over their shoulder every day, where the median income for a family is actually less than $117, 574 (I know, take a minute with that one, Jessica). But just because you don't know about this world outside doesn't mean it isn't there. So please, don't pillage some Asian culture with your "Kimoyes" dress in an attempt to make a dress that everyone's seen in a million iterations already.

     I never thought we'd get here without me becoming physically ill, but Mary's little number might do the trick. I have been increasing my caloric intake, so this just might be the solution. (I kid, please no angry e-mails. I already eat like a cow. Now get off my nuts.) I think you should try patenting your "triple keyhole neckline", Mary, because I really don't think anyone else has (or ever will) try out that little trick. Did I also mention how deliriously high Mary's model is? And how closely she resembles one of my elementary school teachers? No. Well, she is and she does. Also, the length of her arms may be an indication of knuckle-walking, because Lord knows that my arms don't reach down past my knees.

     Folks, if we work together, we can stop bad fashion from happening to good people. Or, in this case, bad people happening to good fashion. Because then all you're left with is ugly people in ugly dresses making everyone else feeling uncomfortable.

     Also, sorry for the bad Conrad pun. Just couldn't help myself.

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And Now For Something Different

(Mock-hoodie designed by Tiga, $34.90 @ H&M)

     I recently went out with the girls to check out H&M's "Fashion Against AIDS" campaign, but instead of contemplating epidemics, I found myself more concerned with celebrity and fashion. Or, more accurately, the intersection between the two. Now, this is a fine hoodie. It's cute, it's a little different, but really, if we're trying to be objective about the whole matter, this isn't a ground-breaking design (not that I expect that from H&M anyway). But Alison was absolutely dedicated to the idea of getting this and the Justice t-shirt (which I refuse to put up here because I think it's absolutely horrible).

     While she was trying it on, I realized that this is very far removed from my own aesthetic and I couldn't find anything to really say about it. It's just a few steps too distant from what I normally shop for that I felt a bit ill-equipped to try and critique it. If forced, I'd say it's quaint. Cute. It's not a real hoodie, like the boys version, more of a mock-turtle/cowl-neck zip-up, which I suppose is a bit different. The all-over pattern, though not my style, falls right in line with the crowd that listens to Tiga.

     But what I really was pondering was, what motivates folks to buy these items? They aren't particularly well-designed, far from well-made, and are available, en masse, to anyone who wants to buy them. Heck, the racks were pretty well-stocked at the Emeryville H&M. So if isn't cut, construction, or quality that is driving the purchase, what is it? Putting my ear to the ground (Googling and pondering and having another glass of cabernet sauvignon), I think it's sheer celebrity that makes people buy these things. Now, don't get me wrong. I love Rufus Wainwright and Justice and the rest of these folks (except Good Charlotte) as much as the next guy, but I found all these clothes completely insufficient according to my standards.

     And now I'm starting to wonder whether or not that's a legitimate reason to buy an article of clothing: just because someone talked to a designer who talked to a press agent who talked to one of Margareta van den Bosch's myriad assistants and put this out, does it mean it's worth your time? The obvious discrepancy between Alison and my view of fashion is that for her, the fact that Tiga was involved in the making of this item is an inherent part of its worth. According to her evaluation, the item's linkage to the Canadian DJ is absolutely inextricable from its actual existence. My attempt to dissociate the man from the clothing, on the other hand, means that I don't take into account his involvement at all.

     Neither of us are wrong, per say. Obviously I disagree with her viewpoint that a name can make a piece of clothing "good", but the thing here is that we're judging the same piece based upon entirely different criteria. So no, I would never buy it. No, I would never wear it. But I accept that and, more than that, I'm happy with it. Never before have I really realized how different two value systems can be and I'm supremely satisfied with the gap. It's comforting to be in my own aesthetic bubble. But it's even better when you can see the clear, definite outline of someone else's bubble. It gives you a better sense of what you wear, of who you are, and of who you want to be.

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Dress You Up in My Love

     Oak is back with a vengeance and a new location on Bond Street. But, more importantly, there's tons of new stuff in stock. What I've always loved about Oak has been the balance they've struck between the avant-garde and the everyday.

(Kerrigan Wrap, $262 @ Oak)

     Not just a cardigan, not just a wrap, not just an another layer. Kerrigan creates an elegant solution to the question of "What should I wear today?" Everything about this piece just screams "Wear me!" from its jersey fabric to its drawstring collar, to its draped pockets. The heather gray is a nice contrast and is the perfect color to showcase the construction. At $262, it's certainly a pricey investment, but this is certainly a piece that would be able to weather the shifting winds of fashion.

(Opening Ceremony Stainglass hoodie, $289 @ Oak)

     One thing I've always loved about Opening Ceremony is that while the folks that run it certainly have an eye for design, they've always been willing and able to fill the holes in their wardrobe for themselves. The result? Pieces like this stainglass hoodie can easily work itself into your closet, but are unique enough to stand on their own.

     Oh, and how much do I love the Oak product shots? They're half the reason I shop there anyway.

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Watch the Runway: Proenza Schouler F/W 08

    Fashion Week has been whirling around us in a fervor and only now am I getting my lazy ass around to actually collecting my thoughts about everything. And what better way to start than with, honestly, one of the best showings of any designer this season: Proenza Schouler Fall '08.



     First things first. It's "School-er". Not "Shoe-ler".
     Now that we've gotten the introductions done with, I can properly begin adulating to the gods that are Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. With the huge cash injection that Proenza Schouler received from the Valentino Fashion Group, the two Parsons grads have been able to go into more conceptual directions with their collection. The meticulous tailoring that we've come to expect out of Proenza Schouler was used to particular effect, creating looks that simultaneously played up and down the body's proportions.
     Pleats and ruffles and bows, usually the domain of the girly and flirty, became expanding symbols of feminine power and self-assertion when used on bright metallic fabrics. The sharp construction transformed soft drapery into solid angles and outerwear was turned inside out (literally) as the duo experimented with what we expect "tailored" design to look like. I especially loved the layering of textures: never have sequins looked so refined. I used to associate them with cheap hookers, but I think the folks at Proenza Schouler certainly kicked the sophistication up a notch.
     The styling was aces. The shoes were a classic pump given new height and new boldness in all-over suede (I think?) or croc in a variety of colors. While I loved the pink and yellow pumps, the chocolate croc one definitely takes the prize for being eminently wearable and deviously stylish. In terms of proportions, there was a definite dichotomy between ruffled dresses and shifts paired with tights and generously cut trousers that billowed with great volume. The trousers were put with sequin-covered tops and cinched by skinny belts and given a great big dash of drama with coats that dripped and drooped under the impressive weight of such minute construction.
     A definite trend that's been emerging this season has been texture, especially in the more monochromatic collections. But instead of playing purely with color or purely with texture, the boys at Proenza Schouler managed to incorporate both without overwhelming the senses. The sense of careful editing is evident through the entire collection. It's easy to see where some sleeves could have ballooned out of control, some ruffles could have spiraled into fashion satire, but a steady eye keeps the silhouettes chic and reasonable, even while they set new precedents.
     Admittedly, this isn't nearly as wearable as any of their previous collections, but that's a good thing. Now that McCollough and Hernandez have been freed from their previous budgetary restrictions, hopefully they'll continue to push the envelope for womenswear. Ultimately, the reason why I (and everybody else) love Proenza Schouler is that no matter what design inspiration they tap, they always strive to answer a very difficult question about fashion: How do you stay chic and sane when you want to break every rule?

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Seeing Red

     The SAG awards passed and you know what that means:

     Red carpet, bitches.

     Do I love everyone in beading and crystals? No. But does Christina Applegate look divine in this Elie Saab number? Absolutely. The hair is just right, pulled back and effortless, but still very polished. Her complexion always makes red lipstick such a great choice, because it plays up her eyes and the great color of her hair, but I'm glad she chose such a subtle red. Clutch? Check. Bracelets? Check. Fantastic neckline and cascading lines of shimmer? Check.

     I am very glad that Michelle Pfeiffer is stepping up her game. Hairspray and Stardust were both pretty good roles for her and I'm glad that she chose such a chic Versace dress for the event. The brown has a slight sheen that works so well with her complexion and, like, Christina Applegate, her hair is loose, casual, but definitely styled. The choice of peep toe pumps, no clutch, and only a watch for an accessory creates such a sleek and no-nonsense silhouette that it's hard not to notice her. The length of the dress is perfect, appropriate for the occasion, but not overly formal.

     I thought Javier Bardem looked particularly dashing in Prada. The tailoring on the suit is fitted, but not constricting. It's an utterly masculine look. I suppose that some of the fellows felt it was less formal of a night, because Javier Bardem doesn't look particularly out of people without neckwear. Although I think he might be showing just the slightest bit too much cuff, I still think it's a refined look that gents should look for as an example.

     I love you to death, Ellen Page, but who said you could wear this Zac Posen? The hair, color, and sleeves add so much age that it's hard to remember that she's only 20. This could have been much better styled if her hair were in loose waves and she hadn't chosen black shoes. The all-over black works much better with a less conservative cut. The neckline and sleeves in black make this more matronly than anything else. The fact that she's only 5' 1" doesn't help, either. A black sheath or even a cocktail dress would have played better to her age. As a younger actress, she can pull off a more revealing dress, so long as she keeps it black and her accessories and make-up subtle and neutral. I hope she just doesn't keep showing up looking like this.

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Excuse Me For a Second

     Now, I don't do this a lot, because I think I come through gay enough, as is. There's an obvious attempt to talk about some politics and art and music because I find that stuff interesting, too. But if fashion's available as a choice, 99% of the time I'm probably going to wind up talking about fashion. I don't know if that's a short-coming or a show of passion, but that's exactly what is it.

     And I specifically try to avoid talking about Project Runway. Those in the know (apologies to Tavi and Alison) know how much I yak yak yak about it. It's endless, needling, and completely inappropriate. It comes out of my supreme and deep-seated love for the show.

     But ladies, please pay attention. What we have here is the only denim dress I have ever endorsed. Please write this down on your calendars. It's absolutely fucking historic. Sweet P on the latest episode of Project Runway, "Even Designers Get the Blues", created the cutest, most elegant, and most strikingly modern denim dress I could have imagined. The color-blocking is just as striking as anything Vince or Missoni could make. I even have proof, bitches:

     Granted, these are very Fall-oriented looks, but the color block works just as well in Sweet P's dress. The lines are softer and the colors brighter, a perfect complement to the feeling and warmth that spring naturally implies. Also, the monochromatic choice of blues brings a level of sophistication that you wouldn't expect of a denim dress, which is why I love it. Then imagine seeing it close up? Think of the texture play there! It's darling and I can't get over it.

     Why do I say all this? Well, two reasons, really. I feel that I'm sometimes a bit less receptive to certain things (i.e. denim dresses) specifically because I don't have a wide enough perspective. But seeing this has really forced me to think outside my typical aesthetic box to embrace something that I had previously always disdained.

     But I'm more in it for the chance to bitch about how she got shafted while Ricky's well-made, but slutted-up tube dress got the win. Because you know it's true.

(Images sourced by Bravo and Neiman Marcus)

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Wherein I Declare War on Prom Dresses

  (From left to right: Helmut Lang Wrinkled Satin Dress, $207.50 on sale; McQ Alexander McQueen Jersey Baby Doll Harness Dress, $573.30 on sale; Diane von Furstenberg Tere Dress, $339.50 on sale)
     I fear for my optic never every time prom season rolls around. Inevitably you'll always wind up with folks running to Windsor for some god-awful dress covered head-to-toe in appliques with a bubble hem, in a baby doll silhouette. Prom dresses such as those are, by nature, terrible wastes of time, money, and fabric. What good is it to dress yourself in a gaudy, lip-glossed version of yourself.
     Of course, this gets to the very root of my problem with how many women dresses, that is by the fashion shown in the press and not by the style they inherently possess. Yes, Marc Jacobs showed surrealists shoes for spring. Does that mean you should wear one? I don't say "no" outright, because you should if you can. The lesson to be learned is that fashion should serve you, not the other way around. This is best illustrated in my own life. While I have noted the resurgence of distressed jeans on the runways, I will not be giving up my raw denim any time soon, by virtue of the fact that I look better in raw denim; it suits my body shape, my color taste, and my personal style far better than any distressed denim would. This, unfortunately, is often learned through trial and error. I'm looking at you, $200+ Slim Kims sitting in my closet.
     So how does this apply to prom? Why, how doesn't it? I find how most girls style their hair and do their make-up to be absolutely absurd. Have you looked at the hair that some of these girls get? I remember thinking how damned flammable (or inflammable) our proms were, just by taking a head count. Now, I'm not saying that you shouldn't get dolled up. Of course you should, it's a nice formal event. Go for it. Manicure, pedicure, new hair style, the works. But don't throw it up into a ridiculous mound on the top of your head that looks fit for nesting condors.
     What we need a whole paradigm shift when it comes to the prom mindset. This shouldn't be an occasion to look as absurd as possible. Instead, why not use it to display your personal style at its best? And don't try to tell me that this is your personal style. Go ahead, I'll give you a minute to click and be thoroughly appalled.
     ........     ................     .......................
     I know, right? Who would wear that, much less stand like it? (Feel free to drop any mentions of Victorya's dress from the Hershey challenege here.) Dresses like that are why I insist upon shopping for something you would actually wear when some horny teenage boy isn't trying to paw his way past your bra.

     We have excellent choices out there, ladies, and they run the gamut from something that will give your parents a heart attack to only slight hypertension. The Helmut Lang is a perfect example of a classic black dress given a chic, yet timeless, spin. The texture of the wrinkled satin and the length screams party dress, but the color and cut are modest enough for a school event. The McQ dress is a bit more daring, but no less appropriate. Jersey is a particularly forgiving fabric if you're going to spend the night dancing to poorly DJed music (I speak from personal experience, here), but the plastic harness gives the dress an interesting focus point as well as a contrasting shine and texture. Now, if you insist upon a bubble hem, then at least do a refined version of it, like the Diane von Furstenberg we've got above. Subtle banding gives the bodice a constructed silhouette that is a delicious complement to the skirt's shape and volume.
     I hope we've learned something here: prom doesn't need to be hideous, fashion doesn't need to be (too) expensive, and it's never too late to get rid of their rayon/polyester number that you somehow convinced yourself to get.

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Out of the Mold Modern

(JF & Son, Spring/Summer 2008)

     Thank god for Refinery 29 and for the many people in their employ who spend their time finding kick-ass stuff like this. Nowadays everyone is afraid of the term "Modernist", just because it's so passé to be one; people would much rather reflect on Modernism and critique it and talk about how we've progressed (or not). But if it was good enough for Virginia Woolf then it certainly is good enough for me.

     Comprised of Jesse Finkelstein and Robert Cordero, JF & Son is, by and far, some of the freshest work I've seen lately. I'm honestly surprised that I haven't heard more about them, but I suppose having only produced two collections limits the amount of press they get. Usually, when people invoke Modernism, it winds up being drab and self-deprecating and, more often than not, a bit conceited, as though there's this big joke about reality that we're all supposed to be in on. But rather than giving in to the cynicism, JF & Sons honestly tries to be Modernist, in the most intellectual sense of the word possible.

     The lines are clean, but never austere. The shapes, while body-conscious (which as the current wave of London designers have noted, is a bit played out of a phrase), actually make me want to say that they're style-conscious. And I'm not talking about style in the season-to-season sense, but in the greater scheme of personal taste and expression. Colors are not only restrained, but refined. Their Spring/Summer collection relies on off-whites and blacks with occasional pops of red and yellow for emphasis.

     As of yet, they don't list any stockists, but I'm sure that it'll be coming along soon enough. Shit this good always finds a way out and about.

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